Showing posts with label Malaysia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malaysia. Show all posts

20 December 2007

Koh Lipe, Thailand

Anchored at Koh Lipe
Tarutao National Marine Park
Andaman Sea
Satun Province
Thailand
6'29.0N/99'18.1E

Greetings from Thailand!! Sandpiper left Langkawi at noon yesterday after we topped off the fuel tanks and got cleared out of the marina. Sandpiper is now sitting lower in the water then when we left Mexico to cross the Pacific. We are so loaded with food, beer, water, and fuel as it is cheaper to buy everything we need to cross the Indian Ocean in Langkawi rather then in Thailand.

We stopped and anchored here at this island because is was just a 25 mile run. That only leaves 90 more miles to go to get to Phuket were we need to check in with Thai customs and immigration. We just picked this anchorage randomly as our guide book said that there was really nothing here. As we approached the anchorage we could see other boats anchored. Then we saw all kinds of white tourists all along the beach. It turns out that Koh Lipe is a backpacker's paradise, with a white sand beach and all kinds of beach bars and beach bungalows.

Team Sandpiper sprung into action. We pumped up the dingy and were soon ashore having ice cold Chang Beers and meeting some of the travelers there. This is the first time we have seen white tourists in a long time. and I am sure that we will see plenty more the farther north we go.

We are kind of here illegally since as we have not officially cleared into Thailand. And we cannot do that until we get to Puket. But it does not see to be a problem here. Our plans are to leave here late this morning for an overnight sail to Puket.

Tom and Amy

18 December 2007

Goodbye Malaysia!




Moored Telaga Harbor/Lenkawi Island
Langkawi Island Group
Kedah
Malaysia
6'22.0N/99'41.1E




Happy 41st Birthday Tom!!!!
That’s right, another Bday has passed, can’t believe a year ago we were pulling into Sydney Harbor, my how time flies and the miles too. We have been patiently waiting for a large package my wonderful father has mailed off to us. Thanks for breaking the bank to send this Dad/Bob! The package is quite important as it contains many boat parts we need and have needed for some time now so we can put the ‘Piper’ back together again. After getting her squared away we plan to fill up with fuel since its cheaper here than Thailand for our big trip westward. We haven’t been full on fuel in a few months should weigh us down and slow us down too. Speaking of weighing us down, since being here in Langkawi we have added several extra pounds of duty free spirits onboard. Langkawi is a duty free island, which to us cruisers is heaven. Once we leave here we won’t be able to buy any booze cheaply or at all until we arrive in the Med, which will most likely be April 2008. Once in the Med it will be best if we don’t have to purchase too much there either so we are loaded to the top of all storage compartments. We have also been able to squeeze in a few tourist sites between all our shopping. The island has the longest span wire chair lift in the world, or so they claim. I thought it was a bit scary and unnerving making my breakfast of roti (traditional flat bread whipped out onto a flat oiled skillet sometimes with egg and onion that you dip into a spicy sauce) not settle to well. Once up to the top, 600 meters, we had a magnificent view of the 99 islands that make up the Langkawi archipelago. They also have a suspended, wire-supported bridge, which I held onto the handrail the whole way around, again fantastic views but I was anxious to get to the end. We have rented a car here a few times too which is always exciting since it’s so few and far between I get to drive and it’s all on the wrong side. Wrong side of the road, wrong side of the car, but after the first hour I’m a regular left hand driver. It’s actually cheaper here to rent a car than for a cab and we have a little more freedom too.
WE GOT MAIL!
The package has finally arrived; we are like kids on Christmas going through the box. Our new heat exchanger, thanks to neighbor Tom back in Oakland, Ca for hooking us up with that. Tom’s really happy with it and looking forward to re-installing it tomorrow. Our gas cap for the outboard, which we seem to have trouble keeping, the new one has a chain on it so it shouldn’t go overboard. My fixed Maui Jim sunglasses oh snap! How I have missed them, I cracked a lens in Darwin before leaving and the last 6 months without them has been torture. Also, a nice care package from Toni, Tom’s mom and Ron, Tom’s brother, sent another stack of movies, just in time we where running out of things to watch. Thanks to everyone for contributing to the package it’s a real treat to receive goodies so far from home and a great Bday surprise for Tom.The next two days consists of us wrapping things up here in Malaysia. We still have a car so we will take one last trip into town for a few more cases of beers, some more cheese and maybe one last McDonald’s breakfast. Tomorrow we will check out of Malaysia with the Port Captain and Customs and start our trip to Phuket, Thailand. Thailand will be our 10th country in a little over our two-year voyage. We are looking forward to exploring some of the surrounding and outer islands of the Phuket area.

10 December 2007

Pulau Gubang Darat

Anchored at Pulau Gubang Darat
Langkawi Island Group
Kedah

Malaysia
6'11.4N/99'47.2E

First off we want to give a HUGE shout out and congratulations to our amigo Chris Allaire who, along with his trusty sailing vessel Christa, has just crossed the Gulf Stream from Florida and is currently in full cruiser mode safely moored in the Bahamas!!

Team Sandpiper got an early start this morning and left our tiny island anchorage just as the sky's were starting to lighten up. We had perfect winds, a first for a very long time, and were able to sail till noon with 15 knots of wind coming right off the starboard beam. Even though we did not sail for more than 5 hours, this is this first time we can remember sailing for the longest time. Our passage through Indonesia and Malaysia has been more westerly than north. And mostly we have been right along the equator where the doldrums are. That means that there are no trade winds to help us along.

We have mostly motored our way every since checking into Kupang, Indonesia to here due to the lack of winds. We are at 6 degrees latitude north and we feel confidant to say we are hoping that the unstable weather of the Inter-tropical Convergence Zone is behind us. Or at least the unstable weather we have been experiencing has moderated considerably. We have had rain the last two days, but none of the crazy violent lightning that we were experiencing south of us.

Not that this really means anything. But we just came below 100 degrees of longitude and is a little weird seeing on the GPS as we have not seen any number lower than 100 degrees longitude for 2 years.

Sandpiper is currently anchored in a very picturesque narrow channel between a small and large island. The islands go straight up with deep water right up to the edge and we are right in between the cliffs. As I type this, there are monkeys on the beach looking at us and porpoises swimming alongside. If you go to the Google Earth link on the right side of this page you can see where we are anchored and the many islands that are surrounding us.

The Langkawi Island Group consists of 104 islands with many protected anchorages and several marinas to choose from. These islands remind us a bit of Tonga. They are all quite close together, tall, with lots of green vegetation.

We are planning on staying in the Langkawi Island Group for the next week as we are receiving packages from home. Langkawi, being a duty free zone are, so we are loading Sandpiper up with as much booze as she will hold as we are off to the Muslim countries to the west where finding an icy cold beer could be a challenge.

Tom and Amy

09 December 2007

Palau Bidan

Anchored at Pulau Bidan
Kedah

Malaysia
5'44.4N/100'17.3E

Yesterday we got our cell phone fixed. It has just never worked right after I left it out in the cockpit in a major deluge of rain while sailing to Borneo. We found a cell phone shop in a huge 8-story mall in downtown Georgetown with a bunch of nerdy guys with soldering irons fixing all kinds of electronics. They gave the phone a bath in alcohol to get all the water out. So far it seems to be working much better!

We also found the mother of all grocery stores... Tesco. Amy was in heaven loading up our overflowing shopping cart with items we have not seen since Australia. Penang gets 4 thumbs up from Team Sandpiper as there is so much to do and see, and as usual we just did not have enough time to see everything that we wanted to see.

Sandpiper left the Penang Yacht Club at 9am this morning for a 20 mile hop up the coast to where we are currently anchored. We are anchored off a small island named Pulau Bidan which offers limited protection from the swells since it is a very small island. This island is not in any guide books. We picked it out just by looking at our charts because we could not have made the trip over to Langkawi without doing part of the trip after dark. We are only making day trips for a while. So no more night time fishing net encounters!

We are staying here until tomorrow morning for a 40 mile run over to Langkawi. Once there we are planning to spend a week exploring its many anchorages and harbors.

More in 24,
Tom & Amy

08 December 2007

Penang

Moored at Penang Yacht Club
George Town
Pulau Penang
Malaysia
5'24.8N/100'20.6E

Greetings from the docks of the Penang Yacht Club where Sandpiper is securely moored after a 200 mile jump up the Straits of Malacca. Last Wednesday we received our mail that we were waiting for. Thanks so much dad Sherman for mail. And thanks mom Larson for the book! One last jump in the swimming pool, one last shower, and we were off.

The winds were very light for this 200 mile run. We sailed for about a total of 30 seconds when we had a very short puff of wind. The first day of motoring up the straits of Malacca was uneventfully, until we got off the entrance to Port Klang (Malaysia's largest shipping port) right at sunset. Amy and I were reading books in the cockpit while Sandpiper was peacefully motoring along when Amy looked over and said "That cloud looks a little scary." Suddenly the wind picked up and rain started dumping down. Luckily we got the mainsail reefed down before we got hit. And we got all the portholes closed just before the deluge started. Then came the lightning which lasted for four hours. It was cracking all over the place. It is something to see when lighting is hitting the water all along the horizon.

Just as I stated that I thought the worst of the lightning was over then a bolt hit the water half a mile off Sandpiper's starboard side. This was the closest we have been yet to being zapped and I just about left a mess in my shorts.

After the storm finally went away the night just got crazier. After we passed a series of shoals we ran into the middle of hundreds of Malaysian fishing boats that have just about every light configuration imaginable. And then there were the fishing nets strewn all over the place. It was very difficult to determine what lights were marking nets and what lights were on the fishing boats themselves.

Fishing boats in Indonesia and Malaysia do not have navigation lights. However, they do have just about every other light though. Most here seem to like the household fluorescent type hanging vertical and then placed all over their boats. Some seem to prefer the green fluorescent bulbs more then others. Then they top this off with flashing different colored LED lights to spruce up the lack of color on their boats. And then they top this off with flashing yellow siren type lights. Good luck trying to figure out what direction they are facing of what their intentions are!

At first we decided to follow an Austrian sailboat in front of us. We figured if they ran into something, then we would just go around them. That was until we called them on the radio as we saw them make a hard turn to port. They said that it was OK to go over the nets and they had just run over the top of one. We decided to make our own route after that and stay clear of the Austrians.

The whole night was a sleepless night for Team Sandpiper as there was so much traffic to deal with. The other option was to stay out of the fishing grounds by moving over to the shipping lanes. But with the amount of shipping we could see running north along Sandpiper's port side, we decided it was safer dodging fishing boats and nets. Better that when compared to getting run down by a ship going over 20 knots that does not see us.

We almost ran over a net. We saw the floats on the surface in the middle of the night we made a hard turn to starboard. The fisherman came out along his nets to show us where they were. It was kind funny because he only had one green fluorescent light on as we got close. Then turned on 4 flashing yellow siren lights as he ran down the length of his fishing net. They mark the ends of their nets with red and blue flashing LED lights. They kind of look like a disco ball at night.

As the sun came up that morning we took a deep breath of relief. Suddenly we were all by ourselves again. We had the option of stopping for the night at an island along the way. But we decided to press on as we are starting to run out of time in Malaysia and have places that we want to spend time at before leaving.

The second night out was much better than the first night because there was no lightning (except off in the distance) and just a few fishing boats. We did have a moment of panic. We were listening to one of the local radio stations (One note on this one cool part about being in Malaysia is that over half the radio stations are English speaking channels and they play American music). The news came on at the top of the hour and they were talking about the heavy flooding from the hard rains around Singapore. When the weather lady came on, she said that the weather service was moving the forecast from orange to red and they expected typhoon force winds. We have no idea what an "Orange weather level" is, much less a "Red Level". But we assume red must be the worst. She failed to mention where this was for and just as she finished the radio faded out.

We freaked out for awhile and could not call our other boat friends back at Sabana Cove because we were out of cell phone coverage. We decided that she must have been talking about the east coast of Malaysia. Or we more hoped that is what she meant. We did reef down the main, and every time the wind picked up a bit, we would get a bit worried. But we figured that if all the fishermen were out there, then we would be OK. If there was going to be any bad weather then they would have run in for shore.

We entered into another group of fishing boats after midnight. These guys had their lights displayed totally different then the guys from the previous night. These guys just had one red light marking their nets and a red light on their boat. It was very difficult to figure out what was a boat and what was a net.

Once again Sandpiper tried to motor over a net. We only saw it when it was 20 feet off the bow. We had just enough time to put the engine in neutral, disengage the autopilot, and make a hard turn to starboard. We left the spotlight on the net and ran down it's length till we saw the end and went safely rounded it. Its seems that the fisherman here do not care if you run over their gear since most really make no attempt to alert you to where their nets are.

Sunrise found Sandpiper right off the channel entrance to Penang only to be surrounded by more fishermen in speed boats buzzing all over the place. These guys did not have nets. So no worries!

Penang is a large island connected to the mainland of Malaysia by a long bridge that Sandpiper went under, arriving at her present mooring at the Penang Yacht Club. It is not so much of a yacht club. It is owned by the city and is really just a marina. But, it has great shower and is only $10.00 a day! We are tied up in downtown Georgetown, which is the largest town on the island. All we have to do is walk across the street and we are downtown.

There is also a large ferry terminal right next to the marina for the ferries that run back and forth to the mainland. One of the locals told me that it was cheaper to ride the ferry than pay the toll to go across the bridge. I have no idea why this would be, other then to secure the jobs for the ferry workers. It seems to be true as the ferries are always full of cars and motorcycles.

There is alot I can write about Penang, but I have already been rambling on too long. So I will keep it short, if I can. Penang is historically rich. This was the first settlement by the Dutch when they settled here. They made this their trading capital for the spice trade back in the 1700's. Since then the British ran them out. After WWII it finally gained independence as a part of Malaysia. There is a large Chinese and Indian population and the city of Georgetown is a large city with lots to see and do.

We have a short time here and will be moving north early Sunday. More when it happens.

Tom and Amy

03 December 2007

Waiting for Paperwork

Moored Admiral Marina & Leisure Club
Port Dickson
Negeri Sembilan
Malaysia

Still stuck in Port Dickson Admiral Marina and Leisure Club (Tom's favorite part of the club). We are awaiting a piece of mail, actually our boat documentation,. It is just ridiculous that we have to have it updated every year. And of course it is always at a time of year where we seem to be leaving one country for another and need it most. Very inconvenient

Anyhow... we are patiently waiting pool side for the mail, enjoying the icy pool, and a few icy beers as well. Admiral Marina is a lot cooler, temperature wise, than Sebanna Cove Marina. So not so bad. But we are really anxious to be getting up north.

Today we actually thought of changing our minds yet again and staying in Malaysia/Thailand for another year. I suggested we put a poll on the blog and we would let the readers decide. But then reality hit and we need to get going as financially we cannot afford to stay. So we will press on.

I think we did decide to skip Sri Lanka. We read today another 17 people were killed in civil unrest. And yes, it is up north, but we should probably just steer clear of the area.

We are hoping to get visas for India and visit the Andaman Islands. These islands have only been open to tourists for the last 20 years. Not exactly sure why, but I do know the beaches are white sand and the water is super, super clear. They take great pride in the cleanliness of the islands, which is probably why they don't let a lot of cruising boats around. Visas are limited, but we will try for one while in Phuket.

Depending on when the mail arrives we may head straight to Langkawi. Or we will do a quick stop in Penang and then off for Thailand. Really looking forward to getting there and also wishing we didn't have to rush through.

Cheers
Amy and Tom

Important Bulletin! Don't forget to check out all our latest photos on Flicker and a few new videos on YouTube. All of which you can conveniently click on right next to my blog entry.

28 November 2007

Port Dickson

Moored at Port Dickson
Negeri Sembilan
Malaysia
2'28.5N/101''50.7E

We finally broke away from Sabana Cove and its wonderful swimming pool after having one last swim on Sunday afternoon. We make the 180 mile jump up the Straits Of Malacca to Port Dickson. We motored the 10 miles back down the Sungai River and anchored just before sunset at the mouth of the river. That way we would be able to leave at first light for the run up the Singapore Straits.

Team Sandpiper got an early start Monday morning at 4:30 am to catch the tide. We wound our way through the hundreds of ships anchored along Singapore's shoreline. As the sun rose at 7am Sandpiper was making 10 knots at times due to the following current. We dodged ships that were maneuvering in and out of Singapore's shipping terminals and we passed ships at anchor.

The amount of shipping around Singapore is truly impressive. There are ships of all types entering and leaving the shipping terminals. Then to look over at the Singapore Straits to see hundreds of ships just transiting the Singapore Straits, past Singapore, on their way to other parts of the world. It truly amazing.

We did not get away from the anchored ships until 3pm when we finally cleared Singapore and were back along Malaysia's shoreline, running north up the Strait of Malacca. We had planned on making 2 stops along this jump north as boats that had made this trip weeks earlier experienced rough passages due to weather and debris in the water. Ten miles from our anticipated anchorage Team Sandpiper held a team meeting and decided that we were making such good progress. We had winds off the beam. So we decided to keep going overnight and do the 180 miles all in one trip.

Luckily we left as early as in the morning as we did because a huge ugly black storm passed right behind us and nailed Singapore with heavy lightning and rain. We could hear about the storm on Singapore's FM radio stations as they were broadcasting warnings for flash flooding.

Sandpiper stayed just outside the shipping lanes all night long and we could see ship's navigation lights passing us. We had a few ships that for some reason did not want to use the shipping lanes to pass us in the other direction. This required large course changes for us to stay out of their way.

Due to Singapore's booming economy they are running out of land to build on. So they are importing gravel and sand from Malaysia to make their small island nation bigger. All during the night we passed tugs and barges of gravel inside us. They are really slow and do not use the shipping lanes in order to keep out of the way of the bigger, faster, ships racing through. They were not too big of a problem for the ol' Piper. Unlike in Indonesia, all the tugs and barges were lit and were on a short tow. So it was easy to figure out where their barges were.

The only really freaky part of the night was when a unlit fishing boat came up along side, flashed us with their spot light, and then sped off into the night. I think they were actually saying "Hello".

This was a transit that we were very thankful to have radar as there were hundreds of ships all around us all night long. But it was not too stressful because they were all going either north or south. So it was quite easy to determine each ship's intent.

The weather continued to hold and we just had to wait out the tides going against us every 6 hours, which slowed us down to 3 knots at times. We would make over 7 knots the other 6 hours when the tidal current was going with us.

Big thanks to our New Zealand friends on S/V Sunburn who gave us a new tide program that shows current direction that proved to be very accurate. And also thanks for the updated electronic charts that helped us pass Singapore. There is more new land in Singapore every year as they keep adding on to their country. Our old charts had us going over this 'new land'.

We arrived at the marina at Port Dickson called "The Admiral Marina & Leisure Club" at noon on Tuesday. We tied up right behind the S/V Shiraz, that belongs our friend's Steve and Renee. They left it here while they flew back to the U.S. to see family.

Also arriving right behind us was S/V Uterus (Norway) whom we had not seen since they got engaged in Singapore. They had to make this trip by stopping every night because lighting had destroyed all of their electronics. Their boat was struck by lightning back in Singapore while they were docked at a marina. They had been able to replace everything in Singapore, except their radar, auto pilot, and depth sounder. This means that they had to hand steer all the way here.

Since I am an International Man Of Leisure this might be home for a few days. We will be here for at least 4 days as we are awaiting Sandpiper's new USCG documentation to arrive before we can leave. We are going to need this when we arrive in Thailand in December.

Tom and Amy

24 November 2007

Sabana Cove Wrap Up

Moored at Sabana Cove Marina
Sungai Santi River
State of Johor
Malaysia
1'24.7N/104'09.7E

"We Got Mail!!"

Ok, I know it’s been a while since you have heard from us and I’m sure your wondering, “What’s going on with the Piper?” Our last entry was about our first week here at Sabana Cove Marina, three weeks later and we are still here. We took one of those weeks and had some great experiences and travels. I had written a great entry but it somehow got lost and then I lost my motivation but with much pressure from Tom here goes the second attempt, but a much shorter version.

Last week we started our trip with a ferry ride from the marina with our friends Emma and Jim from S/V Blue Sky over to Singapore. We had a great reunion with our friends Steve and Rene from S/V Shiraz. We all checked out the crazy hi-tech Sim Lim Square shopping center, had an overpriced, kool-aid tasting Singapore Sling at the famous Raffles Hotel and ended the evening with an excellent meal in Little India. While in Singapore the Deepavali Festival or festival of lights was taking place, this is essentially out with the old, in with the new, a kind of New Years for India. Needless to say Little India was even more of a scene than normal. The main drag of the neighborhood was all a sparkle with tiny white lights, new brightly colored sari’s in the shops windows, lady’s and myself included having henna tattoo on their hands, fireworks for sale and of course many different statues of the Budda. Tom and I went back to Little India the next day for more great food and a look at a few of the temples. That night we helped Steve celebrate his Bday with a nice dinner in Chinatown and then a trip to the Night Safari. Now I’m not a fan of Zoo’s but the Night Safari is way better than any zoo I have ever been too, You actually get to see the animals close up, in a more natural setting than behind bars and their awake. We saw a great 45 minute show seeing some animals I had never heard of, next a tram ride around the park where your so close to the animals they are actually on the tram path. We saw giraffes, hyenas, deer, hipos a tiger but our favorite was the elephants. Overall, our few days we had in Singapore we thoroughly enjoyed. Singapore is an extremely clean city; you may remember the story of the young man from the US getting lashes for spray painting, with lots of culture and diversity for such a small island/country.


The next few days we spent in the large, always busy and bustling city of Bangkok, Thailand. Bangkok is the capital city of Thailand with around 10 million people and I would guess 10 million cars, tuk-tuks and motorbikes, a true traffic nightmare. We stayed in a great neighborhood with a perfect location to all the best sites of the city and of course lots of good eats and drinks. The Khao San Road area is a carnival atmosphere of restaurants, street vendors selling everything from fake ID’s to fake designer bags and of course lots of Thai messages. Tom’s favorite part of Khao San Rd; the portable bars. All along the road folks just set up the portable bar that you can order beer or mixed drinks from, you sit on small plastic seats and people watch, very entertaining. Bangkok is a shopping paradise, with my mental list I was ready to hit the markets and do some bargaining. The Chatuchak Market is the mother of all markets, sprawling over a huge area with over 15,000 stalls and an estimated 200,000 visitors a day, the world’s largest market. Tom and I were lost in the maze of stalls for a few hours and we only made it down two entire lanes and did a half of a lap on the outside stalls. I did walk out with the most beautiful brown leather bag that I’m sure back home would go for a few hundred dollars. You can find just about anything at the market including animals of all kinds the scariest was the tiny squirrels on string leashes. We did a day tour where we went to the original floating market, Damnoen Saduak Market and the bridge over river Kwai or the death railway bridge. The bridge was built during WWII by allied prisoners of War. There is not much of the original bridge left today. On a much lighter note we also signed up for a Thai cooking class where we first visited the market to purchase all the fresh ingredients and we all participated in making several dishes, I’m actually looking forward to taking another class when we get to Phuket. Lastly, while in Bangkok your trip just wouldn’t be complete if you didn’t have clothes made. Tom left with a wool-cashmere pinstriped suit and I with a few shirts and pinstriped shorts. As soon as it’s not 100 degrees will don the new clothing and take photos.


Traveling through three countries in one day and we were back at the marina. Once settled we had the pleasant surprise of finding out we had mail. We received a great package of Christmas music from our friends from S/V Sensei who are now back in the Bay Area and a lovely letter and photo from our friend Charlie in Indiana. This was such a great surprise, getting mail is very exciting news on the dock and we LOVE it! We have been held up here a little longer than planned but due to bad weather and some unexpected boat projects we are still here but hope to leave this Sunday and head around Singapore, up the Straits and pull into Pt. Dickson for a few days with a trip to Kuala Lumpur the capital of Malaysia.

Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Cheers
Amy and Tom

05 November 2007

Huge News Update

Moored at Sabana Cove Marina
Sungai Santi River
State of Johor
Malaysia
1'24.7N/104'09.7E

Ahoy from Sabana Cove Marina, week 1.0.

HUGE NEWS UPDATE!!
Originally we thought that we would stay in Malaysia for 4 months, and then sail across the Indian Ocean to round the southern tip of Africa. We looked at our guidebooks and we discovered that we would have to stay in Malaysia for a year in order to catch the winds blowing in the right direction, and avoid Monsoon season in the Indian Ocean.

We are now planning on heading up the Malacca Straits to pick up Amy’s dad . He is flying in to Puket, Thailand in December, and will be crewing with us for 2 weeks. Then we are then leaving Thailand in January to cross the Indian Ocean and sail up the Red Sea, through the Suez Canal, to the Mediterranean Sea. There we hope to spend some time before crossing the Atlantic in fall of 2008. We will be doing this trip up the Red Sea along with friends from S/V Uterus and S/V Shiraz. Be sure to check out their sites under ‘Friends of Sandpiper’.

This was a major change of plans for us and we are pretty excited about what lays ahead. We will have to keep moving along to keep on schedule. So keep on checking on us to see how we are doing!

Since our arrival in Malaysia and Sabana Cove Marina ‘Team Sandpiper’ has been taking full advantage of marina living! It is really nice to be plugged into power, swim in the pool whenever we want, run a hose with drinkable water, surf the internet all day long, chat with friends and family back home via Skype on the internet, and go into town via the marina's shuttle vans. Sabana Cove is a resort that has a restaurant, bar, pool, gym, laundry services, golf course, archery range, and houses surrounding the marina that are part of the resort.

It is a bit of a strange place though. We are really in the middle of nowhere, 6 miles up a river, and far from the nearest town. There are not many people around the resort during the day. Except on weekends when people come over on the ferry from Singapore to get away for a few days. Most of the year this marina is mostly empty, with a few boats that live aboards year-round. But now the marina is totally full with boats that we traveled with in the Sail Indonesia Rally. It’s quite strange to walk down the dock since we know every boat as we pass by and everyone yells "Hello" as we walk by. It is kind of like we never came into foreign country.

Our friends on S/V Blue Sky with whom we have sailed with since the Marquesas in French Polynesia are tied on the other side of the pier from us. Just like we were back in Woolwich Marina in Sydney Australia. They are planning on spending a year in Malaysia with their kids and are going to here in Sabana Cove Marina for at least the next 3 months.

The resort also has a bar that Team Sandpiper appeared in last night. It is quite a strange bar, full of older white men whom we found out work down the road from the resort and building giant oil drilling platforms. Its quite a huge facility. They showed us pictures of the platforms and the huge cranes that they use to pick them up and place them on barges for transport around the world. We tried to scam a tour. But security is quite tight and could not get any takers to take us over there.

We did find out that most the Western workers all stay at the hotel here. Now it makes sense why this place is here, and why it is empty during the day. I think the resort was built to house western workers as part of a deal when the oil platform yard was built. This is why this resort is out in the middle of nowhere.

The best part of the bar are the 3 Malaysian girls in white go-go boots singing to all these white, male, oil workers.

We have made a couple of runs into town. The marina provides a van on Mondays and Thursdays for the cruisers here that need to get some shopping done. It is a bit of a painful procedure though, a lot like an outing at a senior center. Everyone wants to be first in the van. And when in town, they all want to be first back in the van. So you never know if you are going to be left behind.

Town here is 10 miles away and quite small. There is a chrome statue of a giant prawn (shrimp) in the town center that is quite exciting to see. We found a really great restaurant that has tanks of live lobsters outside and great giant shrimp.

Other than getting groceries in town, we have been trying to find parts for things that have broken while transiting through Indonesia. The first thing we needed was a water filter to filter the water from the spigot on the dock so we could drink the water that we were loading in Sandpiper's water tanks. We found a hardware store on the edge of town where the Chinese owner hooked us up with all the right fittings. I think he has sold quite a few of these in the last week with all the boats that had just arrived.

We also needed a new long propane lighter so we could light our oven with out burning our fingers. We asked the owned of one small hardware store if he had any. He came out with a lighter that looks like a small shotgun. When you pull the trigger, flames come out the barrel. Too cool!

Another part we needed to find was a replacement electric fuel pump for our generator. It has given us constant issues. We stopped a several automotive shops, but mostly they only fix motorcycles as this is the preferred mode of transportation in this part of the world. Just when we were about to give up we stopped at Berjaya Car Service Center where we met the owner, Eng Ching Fook, or Mr. Fook. He was convinced that he had one on his shelves that were piled high with automotive gear. We both dug around, not finding it. He promised me in broken English that he would find the part. From where? I have no idea. HE said that he would bring it down, that night, to the marina.

We were a bit skeptical and left him the old pump so he would have an idea of what we needed. Sure enough, that night he showed up in the lobby of the resort with a brand new electric fuel pump! He also told us that we could use it as a back up because he had also fixed our old one!

He had brought his wife and friends with him, so we invited him down to Sandpiper. He was very impressed with Sandpiper's engine room and crawled all around giving us a big thumbs up. You ever need an engine part in Malaysia, Mr. Fook is the man!

Another project is the chain locker. Back in Bali we had pulled the chain out of locker in order to repaint the length markings. They show us every 25ft of chain. When we looked down into the empty chain locker we noticed that there was over 30 years of old mud and dirt on the bottom. The chain locker is very narrow and has a small door at the top that you can just barely put your eye up to look in. It is so inaccessible that there is no way to reach down to get at the dirt, 4 feet below.

Since Bali we kept thinking of ways that we could get all this dirt out there. Jim, from S/V Blue Sky, totally hooked us up with a giant hole saw and a screw on fitting which took less than 15 minutes to install. (Be sure to check out Blue Sky's web site). I scooped out a trashbag full of mud and dirt. Now, with the new fitting, we can unscrew the cap and clean out the bottom of the chain locker whenever we want!

This was also made easy another project. Many boats here are taking advantage of galvanizing services. It is really cheap here. Since all the chain is out for the locker cleaning, we might as well. We all put our anchors and chains together for galvanizing. They should all look like new by next week, Or so we hope. Or else we will all be stuck here for some time.

The Sabana Cove Marina has WiFi. So we have been taking full advantage of it since we have not had unlimited WiFi since we were anchored in the very rolley anchorage in Niue. All the WiFi in the marinas in Australia were limited since they charged you by the amount of data that you would transmit and receive. So if we needed to send photos, or to work on our website, we would have to track down an internet café.

We have had the Internet hooked up since we arrived and it has been really nice. If you go to our photo and video links, we have gotten everything caught up.

Also using the Skype service as been really great since we have been able to talk to friends and family whom we have not talked to in a long time. I had a great conversation with Captain Chris, our good friend that just retired from the U.S. Coast Guard. He is sailing his Westsail32, the S/V Christa, down the east coast of the U.S. on his way to warmer latitudes. It was cool as we could both talk from our boats on opposite sides of the world for free! Make sure you stop by his site and say "Hello!" on his guest book.

We also had a great write up published in our yacht club back home in their online newsletter , ‘The ‘Porthole’. You can read it here. (Adobe Acrobat PDF reader required)

Team Sandpiper's current plans are to leave Sanbana Cove via the ferry tomorrow for 3 nights in Singapore to meet our friends from S/V Shiraz whom we have not seen in a long time, and celebrate Steve’s birthday. We have been sailing with S/V Shiraz since Bora Bora last year. And we will continue to travel with them for the next year. Their boat is in a marina further up the straits, 200 miles from here. They are flying back to the States for a month. Their flight stops for the night in Singapore and they are staying for the night between flights in order to have some Singapore Slings with us.

Team Sandpiper is then hopping on an airplane to fly up to Bangkok for 4 nights since flights are very inexpensive in Malaysia. Then, back to Sandpiper.

Tom and Amy

26 October 2007

Sungai Santi, Malaysia

Anchored in the Sungai Santi (Santi River)
State of Johor
Malaysia
1'23.4N/104'05.8E

A lot can happen in a day when it starts at midnight and you use the full 24 hours.

Team Sandpiper sprung into action at 12:01am, so that is when our day began. We pulled up anchor and said goodbye to Palau Kentar under an almost full moon with glassy waters. There was not a breath of wind. We motor sailed our way through a large group of islands for 50 miles and never caught the tidal current that we were hoping for till 2 hours after is was supposed to show up.

Our plan was to stop for the night at a small bay as our last stop in Indonesia. This was so we could leave at sunrise the next morning to cross the Singapore Strait in daylight. We picked this anchorage just by looking at our C-Map electronic charts and the bay looked like a nice stop as it was very protected and would be easy to leave in the dark just before sunrise. But as luck would have it, as soon as we dropped the hook we noticed that we were anchored right in front of a large navy base with a customs office. Since we had already cleared with customs out of Indonesia back at Belitung , we were not 'supposed' to stop anywhere else in Indonesia. We were hoping to avoid any more officials before we left. But just our luck, this is where we picked to anchor.

As soon as we got the hook dropped (3pm) a boat full of Indonesian immigration officials pulled up to us. They came out because they wanted to know why we had stopped there since we had already cleared out of Indonesia back in Belitung. I explained that we were not leaving the boat and only wanted to anchor there till 5am so we could safely cross the Singapore Strait in daylight. He said "Sorry. But you will have to leave right now." I thanked him for sending us off to cross the straits in the dark, pulled up the anchor, and took off at full throttle to get across the straits 15 miles away.

It turned out that things worked out OK as we had a following current and were now making 7 knots. Now we just had to get across the straits. Crossing the Singapore Strait is a lot like playing Frogger (a video game), with the same results if you move the wrong way. There were ships everywhere moving all directions. We passed a cruise ship. Then we had a container ship and two tankers , all side by side, bearing down on us. So we came down their side and slipped right behind them.

After that we just had a few more ships to dodge and then we were across, on the Malaysia side of the strait just at the sun was setting. There are hundreds of ships at anchor. Sandpiper wound her way through all these anchored ships with no problems and dropped anchor in 15 feet of water in the mouth of the Santi River.

We were not to sure exactly where the channel is since it is not well marked. Our C-Map electronic charts were dead on accurate and we would not have wanted to make this trip in the dark without them.

We are planning on staying here at anchor till sunrise tomorrow, then move 3 miles upriver to Sabana Cove Marina, our new home for the next 3 weeks. Singapore is right across the channel from us. We are planning on taking inland trips from here for some exploring. Also a must-do is to get over to Singapore for a Singapore Sling! We will have WiFi in the marina so keep checking our site for the next three weeks as we are hoping to get all our photos and videos updated. Also we will be on Skype. So look for us!

Tom and Amy