Showing posts with label Yemen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yemen. Show all posts

17 August 2008

Latitude 38 letter about Somolia

Tom and Amy's letter to Latitude 38 magazine was published in the August-2008 issue (page 56). You can read it online here, but it is about halfway down the page. Hint: Use your browser's Find function to find the word "SOMALIA" to get to it (Windows: use Control-F, Mac: use Cmd-F). Here is the letter taken from that issue of the magazine....

THERE'S NO REASON TO GET CLOSE TO SOMALIA

In regard to the story you posted about a German cruising family being kidnapped off of the northern part of Somalia, the area is of big interest to me, as my wife and I have just been through it on our way to the Red Sea, the Med, and Turkey.

I think there is much hype about piracy in the Gulf of Aden, and it influences peoples' decisions about making this passage as opposed to not making it at all or going around South Africa. Incidents only seem to involve vessels that are too close to the Somalian shore. In this case, the German couple's vessel had gone close enough to take photos of the shore.

There is, in fact, no reason to go or be anywhere near the coast of Somalia, as the Gulf of Aden is generally more than 150 miles wide. Problems with kidnappers or pirates can be avoided by hugging the coast of Yemen, where the chance of an incident is just about zero. In other words, there is no reason to be less then 100 miles off the coast of Somalia!

It seems as though the only stories that make the news are the tales of irresponsible skippers who bring their boats too close to a coast that is well known for such problems. If you examine all the piracy reports, you'll see that none of them have taken place near the coast of Yemen.

In addition, it's also very easy to travel with other boats, as there are always other boats making the same transits. So why travel alone?

Tom and Amy Larson
Sandpiper, Yorktown 35, Ha-Ha Class of '05
Tiburon / Currently in Turkey

Readers — The reports on the kidnapping of the German cruisers off northern Somalia on June 23 have been rife with incorrect information. It was often reported that there had been four cruisers: an older German couple, their son, and a French skipper. However, the respected German newsweekly Der Spiegel has more recently reported that it was actually just a German couple, identified only as Jürgen K., 63, and Sabine M., 51, aboard their yacht Rockall. They were crossing the Gulf of Aden on their way from Egypt to Thailand when they were kidnapped, apparently having 'cut the corner' to shorten the distance to Thailand.

One of the kidnappers claimed the couple were seized for "invading Somalian waters." Right, as if the couple was the vanguard of the Fourth Reich and Somalia is the new Poland. Der Spiegel reported that the couple later were able to talk to relatives in Germany by phone, and diabetes medicine was sent to Somalia for Jurgen. A Somalian tribal leader in the mountains, where the couple are believed to be held, is the go-between, and says the pirates want $2 million in ransom. As for Rockall, she was found washed ashore. There have been no news updates in nearly a month, which sounds ominous, but is actually not unusual in Somalian abduction cases.

With nearly 2,000 miles, Somalia has the longest coastline of any African country, and the entire length is rife with active pirates and kidnappers. Somalia has been in chaos for decades because of the lack of a central government and because of corruption and numbing poverty.

It's estimated that about 100 private yachts transit the 'chute' that is the Gulf of Aden on their way to the Red Sea each year. Experts say that, although Somalian pirates have come to within 50 miles of Yemen, the Yemen side of the Gulf of Aden is far less dangerous. See this month's Changes for evidence that this is indeed the case.

The most high-profile yacht kidnapping case off Somalia in recent times involved the luxury French sailing yacht Le Ponant on April 4. French troops 'rescued' the hostages — after $2 million in ransom was paid. Eight of the 14 pirates were eventually killed, with the other six arrested. Some of the money was recovered.

But don't think that incident of piracy and kidnapping — which made international headlines — put a stop to such activity. In the July Yachting World, skipper Johan Lillkung of the 88-ft Dolpin reports that there were no less than five piracy incidents off Somalia — in less than 24 hours while he passed offshore. And in early July, Somali pirates freed the German ship Lehman Timber and her crew, who had been hijacked a month before. One of the pirates told reporters that the ship and crew were released after an English-speaking captain paid them $750,000 in cash.

Would we hug the coast of Somalia if we were on our way to or from the Red Sea? No. After all, it's not even one of the garden spots or cultural meccas of the world.

Tom and Amy are back aboard Sandpiper in Fethiey, Turkey. I spoke to Tom yesterday. He said the flight back was fine, but both he and Amy were not feeling well thanks to something they must have ate on the flight to Istanbul. He said that it is very hot there. Sandpiper was very dirty and had to be cleaned. Steve, from S/V Shiraz, kept a good eye on her while Tom and Amy were back in the US.

Ron

15 May 2008

Extra - Somolia Pirates

This evening we leave Sandpiper secure in her slip while we head inland to Luxor. And then we head down the Nile on a river boat cruise. I am posting a link to "Report from 'Pirate Alley ' (Gulf of Aden)", an article that was passed off by email to us by a boat named s/y Dolphin that traveled with us right through the middle of the Gulf of Aden in April. They write of their experience, something to read while we are gone…

Disclaimer:
When I first received an email from another boat that was in the area, I was very skeptical of this story. I could not understand why they were transiting in this area right between Yemen and Somalia. We purposely hugged the coast of Yemen when we transited the Gulf of Aden to avoid this area. Since then I have had this story verified by another boat that was in the area on delivery with limited stops.

We send this out because we have written before about Somalian piracy. We also linked to some BBC broadcasts about the subject. Piracy in the Gulf of Aden gets very little publicity, mostly because there are no reporters in this area or in Somalia. For one contemplating a Red Sea passage, this area can be avoided by hugging the coast of Yemen, like we did.

When we passed through the Gulf of Aden in April, reports of piracy incidents in the area had been just about nil. I say "JUST about nil" as there may have been an incident that was never passed along. However, cruisers being a tight knit group, always seem to get this information out.

See you when we get back!!

Tom and Amy

02 April 2008

Aden, Yemen

Anchored Port of Aden
Yemen
12'47.4N/44'58.7E

Our last morning in Aden, Yemen... we hope. We tried for a get away yesterday. But the water pump did not want to cooperate. So we will try again today.

This morning finds us busy preparing the 'Piper for an afternoon departure from the anchorage, along with S/V Shiraz and S/V My Chance (from Turkey). Tom and Steve are currently filling up fuel jugs. Then they are off to pick up, fingers crossed, our perfectly repaired water pump. Then we will pull the 'Piper up to the wall to fill up with water and wash the decks. And then finally we check out of Yemen with proper authorities and off we will go.

While Tom takes care of the 'blue' jobs, I'm here on the boat taking care of the 'pink' jobs. Because I thought we were leaving yesterday, I'm ahead of the game a bit. I have pressure cooked chicken all cubed up and ready for sandwich fixings, along with some very spicy salsa.

While underway we sleep up forward on the starboard bunk. So the bed is all made up, floors washed, head cleaned, dishes put away, salty snacks and candy strategically placed for easy access in case of an unpleasant passage. And my final job... write the Aden wrap-up.

Our time here in Aden has been a positive and pleasant experience. We have found the locals to be very friendly, most wishing us a warm "Welcome!" everywhere we go. After clearing in we wanted to do the usual drill that happens when in a new port. We find internet access, and some local restaurants and shops. To our surprise, when we were directed to 'the mall', it turned out to be a real mall, just like home with everything we needed.

In our short visit here we have made a trip to the mall everyday. The internet is good, along with grocery store Lu-Lu's. Most stores are shut down between noon and 4. But after 4, the mall is busy. And just like back home, you see teenagers hanging out and families out for the night. It is just a little different in that all the women are in burqas. Or as Tom calls them, the 'Hamburglar dress".

We did a three hour tour of Aden where we went to 'Old Town Aden' and bought lots of great fruit and veggies. Our guide was saying that not too many years ago cars didn't rule the streets like today. Instead they had camels with a two wheel cart that they would pull. We went to the camel queue, and just like a taxi queue, they patiently wait until hired out. They take just about anything they can fit on their cart around town.

They say that camels here are different than those in Oman. But I'm not enough of a camel expert yet to identify the difference.

Walking around this old part of town we felt like we were on parade. Everyone stares. And when our cameras came out, EVERYONE wanted their photo taken. "Hold up this dead baby shark and take your picture with me!" one man said. It was a wonderful way to spend the afternoon.

A few more things I need to mention before wrapping it up. A lot of folks back home always ask me "What do you wear while out around town?" "What do you eat and drink?" Since we are guests in a Muslim country, it is important for us to respect local traditional customs. I'm not walking around wearing a burqa. Instead, I wear long pants, or a long skirt, and usually a t-shirt style top with a long sleeves always at the ready. It is customary to expose as little flesh as possible. Tom usually sports long pants and a button down shirt.

Now as far as food goes, here it is all about the roasted chicken. It is the most popular dish here in Yemen. And I have read somewhere that we can look forward to seeing this dish on the menu the entire way up the Red Sea. My favorite items to go along with the chicken is pita bread with humus, and wonderful Greek salads. In other words, the food here is good. A meal typically runs about $5 a person.

To find alcohol in restaurants is not easy. We did get a recommendation for a Chinese restaurant that served alcohol. So we took advantage of this information and can say that both the food and cocktails were great. Alcohol is not very popular with the locals because many Muslims don't drink. However, I must mention 'The Sailor's Club' located directly across from us here in the anchorage. Not only do they serve alcohol, but they have bands that start at midnight and play until 4:30am. And, it is also a house of ill repute, which we just find fascinating since the ladies are always burqa'd out. We of course had to check this out. So we went in for a few beers. When we were told "No photos", you know something is sketchy there.

Our visit was short and sweet. Just enough time to check things out, and we were ready to go back to the boat. That is probably more than you ever wanted to know about our short visit here. So I will wrap it up. As I type away Tom is wedged in the cramped engine room installing our newly rebuilt water pump, once again.

We are officially checked out and will head out for our 100 mile trip around the corner of Yemen. Tomorrow morning we will be going through the 'Gates Of Sorrow'.

Hope everyone back home is well we are always thinking of you.

One Love,
Amy and Tom



Notes From Ron:
  • I think that Tom is thinking about Grimace, not "The Hamburglar", when he mentions burqas. The Hamburglar is a small red-headed man dressed as a burglar in black and white stripes. Grimace is a monotone purple...thing, something like a mutant Barney the Dinosaur crossed with a gumdrop.
  • Old Town Aden is called "Crater" and is built inside the crater of the collapsed volcano that makes Aden and it's natural harbor.
  • The Gates of Sorrow, actually known as "The Gate of Tears" in Arabic (Bab-el-Mandeb), is the narrow channel connecting the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean.
  • I really couldn't find any photos of The Sailors Club. I guess they really do enforce their "No Cameras" rule.

30 March 2008

Pictures Slowly Being Updated

We are in Aden, Yemen and we are trying to get as many photos posted as possible before we leave. We will not have access to the Internet for some time after here, possibly until Egypt. So check them out!!

Tom and Amy

29 March 2008

Aden, Yemen

Anchored at the Port of Aden
Aden
Yemen
12'47.4N/44'58.7E

We arrived at the entrance buoy to Port of Aden at 1400h and contacted Aden Port Control requesting permission to enter the harbor and proceed to anchorage. After answering their questions by a very happy port official, we were welcomed to Aden and told to proceed.

Aden is a large shipping port and the yacht anchorage where Sandpiper is currently anchored is opposite the cargo shipping terminals alongside town where customs and immigration has their offices. It is a bit surreal being here as we are anchored just across for where the USS Cole was bombed. I have vivid memories of seeing the Cole after the bombing on CNN. I remember that all the pictures and video were shot from the same point right where we are anchored. In every shot there was a picture of a Canadian sailboat. I kept asking myself "Who in their right mind would sail to Yemen?" Well, here we are....

If you get the chance, read the book "Voyage of Northern Magic". It was written by a Canadian family that arrived in Aden shortly after the bombing and it is the boat that was in all the pictures and videos. It is a really well written book that is quite funny in parts.

S/V Shiraz arrived one hour behind us and is now anchored right off our bow. Our plans are to stay aboard tonight and in the morning check in with customs and immigration. We plan to be here until around Tuesday before we make our next jump northwest to where we will be officially entering the Red Sea.

If you check out our position on the Google Earth program on this site you should be able to get a good picture of right were we are anchored.

More before we go,
Tom and Amy

28 March 2008

2008-Mar-28 Noon Position

Offshore Yemen Coast
Gulf of Aden
Indian Ocean
12'47.3N/45'15.5E

  • 126 nm last 24 hours
  • 17 nm to Aden
  • 257 nm from Al Mukalla
  • Winds SE 15-20 knots
  • Seas 5-6 feet SE
Last 24 hours we have been blasting along with out best 24-hour run in a very long time. The winds have held and we have been in a downwind run with winds up to 20 knots at times. The main is out to starboard and the jib is poled out to port.

S/V Shiaraz still behind us about 12 miles after our separation the previous night due to weather. They are slowly closing the gap.

Sailing the Yemen Coast we are a bit paranoid of any traffic that is not a ship, especially when they are getting close to us. Last night around 9pm a small boat (less then 50 meters) was closing on us. I was getting a bit concerned as this was the first small boat I have seen on this coast that was heading right for us. After they got within 1/4 mile from us I grabbed the VHF and was about to call out to the boat when we were called by a coalition warship. We answered back. It turned out that the small boat behind us was the coalition warship. They had several questions to ask us that was suspiciously the same 10 questions we asked of boats when conducting law enforcement in the Coast Guard. Turns out it was the boys in blue on a 110 foot U.S. Coast Guard Patrol boat patrolling the Yemen/Somalia border looking for suspicious boats.

First question they asked us was "Have you seen any pirates?" I told them no, and thought they were about to pirate us. Not sure what they were doing so far from home. They cannot give us many details over the VHF radio. But I would imagine that they were one of the 110ft patrol boats that were sent to the Persian Gulf as part of the war.

I told them I had retired from the Guard in 2005 and we all had a good chuckle meeting so far from home. We are very relieved to see that the U.S. Coast Guard is out here to prevent piracy along with the U.S. Navy.

Plans are to pull into Aden late this afternoon and drop anchor for several days.
More in 24,
Tom and Amy

27 March 2008

2008-Mar-27 Noon Position

Offshore Yemen Coast
13'18.0N/47'20.6E
Gulf of Aden
Indian Ocean

  • 117 nm last 24hrs
  • 142 nm to Aden
  • 131 nm from Al Mukalla
  • Winds SE 15-20 knots
  • Seas 5-6 feet SE
Cracking along nicely last 24 hours... 117nm!! We finally have winds from the SE and up to 20 knots giving us an average of 5-6 knots over the ground with the winds right off the port quarter. We were not sure what the winds were going to do at sunset last night. They usually die away. So we sailed through the night with just the main and staysail out as we did not want to rig the jib pole at night. At sunrise we popped out the jib pole and have been flying ever since.

With winds this strong it is really hard to keep up with S/V Shiraz. They rocketed ahead at sunset and somehow we lost radio contact. We found them 10 miles aft of us at sunrise this morning. They had heaved to waiting for us to catch up with them, and they are now catching up with us.

We dragged 2 lures off back of boat. The spoon lure I bought in Australia got eaten by something very large. It chewed right through our 300lb wire leader and stole my spoon!

If winds keep up we are hoping to make the anchorage at Aden before sunset tomorrow.

More in 24
Tom and Amy

26 March 2008

2008-Mar-26 Noon Position

Offshore Yemen Coast
Gulf of Aden
Indian Ocean
14'18.0N/49'04.1E

  • 14 nm since 8am
  • 256 nm to Aden, Yemen
  • 14 nm from Al Mukalla, Yemen
  • Winds SE 5-10 knots
  • Seas 0-1 feet SE
Back at it this morning after Shiraz had their fuel delivered at sunset yesterday. We decided to stay overnight because we did not want to transit the first stretch of coast at night. The first 30 miles are near shore and we do not want to risk running into fishing nets.

We actually have winds from the SE for the first time in a long time. We are able to sail with S/V Shiraz next to us to this transit to Aden.

We are still getting BBC and are not too pleased to hear that an American cargo ship that works for the military has unloaded a machine gun into an Egyptian hawker boat that was coming along side to try to sell them supplies. They killed one man on the southern end of the Suez Canal, right where we are heading. Way to go America...

More in 24,
Tom & Amy

25 March 2008

Al Mukalla, Yemen

Anchored
Al Mukalla
Yemen
14'31.6N/49'07.9E

We are officially at the gates of Hell and we haven't even hit Africa yet. It is so freakin' hot!!!!! It is currently 3:30pm and 92 degrees with 72% humidity. It is even, dare I say, too hot to drink beer!

We arrived at the town of Al Mukalla yesterday morning. What a difference 300 miles makes. The contrast between Oman and Yemen is just startling. The per capita income here is $600, where in Oman it's $7600, and it shows. The streets are littered with trash, dirty children, women beggars in full-on all black coverings (veil covering the face, gloves, not one inch of skin showing, and all in black). However the shocker was the dead goat floating by the dingy after dinner.

After we got checked in we hit the streets in search of local currency and internet. The internet cafe was a treat. As soon as we entered Rene and I were rushed off behind a curtain so as not to distract the men of course. Rene came out to get her glasses and was snapped at to get back behind the curtain. It was a really nice enternet (sic) - the spelling at the shop. It even had Skype and I was able to chat with Pat, my mom.

After an interesting dinner of pointing and hand gesturing since none of us speak Arabic and we were back out to the rolly anchorage for the night. Currently we are awaiting the return of our full fuel jugs and passports from the agent so we can make tracks for Aden, another 300 miles on.

While we patiently wait for our agent to return we noticed that are surrounded by many Mosques that erupted with calls to prayer throughout the day. Behind us is an enormous desert and a brown, boulder strewn mountain. All of the buildings in town have the same architecture, castle looking squares. It is a very Hollywood Arabic movie setting.

If we receive our jugs at a decent hour we may leave tonight. For now we just wait.

More later,
Amy and Tom