Showing posts with label Barbados. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barbados. Show all posts

02 February 2009

Barbados Rum Report

This is the newest exciting addition to Sandpiper's site. While transiting the Caribbean we will be sacrificing our bodies while we do in depth research discovering as many of the Caribbean’s rum distilleries as possible and reporting what we discover what the rum situation is like at each island. Not only is rum great to drink, it is a huge part of the history of these islands. From the very first settlers, it is still a major part of each islands economy.


We are using a book we recently discovered, ‘Rums of the eastern Caribbean’ written by fellow cruiser Edward Hamilton who sailed thru these islands on his boat, sampling all these delicious rums while he wrote his guide. He is also know as the ‘Minister of Rum’ by fellow cruisers as he has quite a supply of rum aboard and he holds tasting nights with fellow cruisers in whatever anchorage he happens to drop his hook in.

A brief lesson on where rum comes from and why it is so popular here in the Caribbean: Sugar Cane is grown throughout the Caribbean which is harvested and then run thru a crusher that squeezes out all the juice.  The juice is then collected and made into sugar that is exported all over the world. What is left is molasses. This molasses still has a small amount of sugar left in it. It is left to ferment, then distilled into delicious rum.

Some of this is sold as white rum. Or it is left to age in recycled whiskey barrels from America,  which turns the rum into a golden color. Once this is judged to be of proper age it is bottled as aged rum, or mixed with local spices and sold as spiced rum.

Barbados was established in 1627 and had 120 drinking houses in Bridgetown alone! Rum was first known as ‘Kill Devil’, a hot and horrible liquor. The largest distillery on the island is also the oldest in the world, ‘Mount Gay’, that started business in 1663!! We were fortunate to drop by the distillery for a tour and tasting while visiting the island.

There we learned that Mt. Gay is a sponsor of many regattas around the world. And if you’re a participant you receive a red Mt. Gay ball cap. This is the only way to receive their cap. If you wear your cap to the distillery then you are given a ‘special’ treat. Since we are already planning our next visit to Barbados, it looks like we will need to find a regatta first.

Barbados also has Cockspur Rum that was founded in 1884, West Indies Rum Distillery that was founded 1893 and several smaller distilleries.

Barbados is NOT for the recovering alcoholic as the island is covered with drinking establishments called ‘Rum Shops’. Some of these are large bars. But most are so small that only two persons can sit inside. Others are just small huts where one just stands outside. In order to be a true rum shop, the establishment has to have a rum number issued by Mt. Gay, as this is the official rum on the island. There are hundreds of these all over the island, and mostly this is where the locals come to drink. Most locals have a neighborhood rum shop near their house where they come to drink in the afternoons, much like a local pub back home.

Our favorite haunt, ‘Red Man Bar’, is just a short swim from Sandpiper. It is a bar for tourists from the cruise ships during the afternoons. In the evenings when the tourist have returned to their ships, it becomes a rum shop for the locals, ‘Team Sandpiper” included.

The most affordable way for the locals to drink at a rum bar is order a bottle of rum. You get a Coke bottle full of Mount Gay Rum, a large bowl of ice, and a pitcher of water. You then fill your cup with ice, as much rum as you need, and a little water. The code in the rum shops is that once you open your rum then it is fair game for anyone else to grab some of your bottle. Or if your bottle is empty and someone else opens a bottle, then you grab his.

While indulging in this local pastime one evening and sharing stories of our travels we had mentioned how much Australians love their beer. We were quickly schooled that this view needed to change. So now we say Bajan’s love their rum.

Barbados is a bit laid back when it comes to enforcing any laws for anyone whom has consumed too much rum and is running around in public. On one of our many nights at the Red Man Bar we met a large Barbados man that had spent his entire afternoon at the bar drinking rum. It was already quite apparent by his slurring speech. While he was telling us his many stories a couple of cruise ship tourists walk by. He yells out to them, much to our disbelief, “Need Taxi Mon??” He was on the clock with his taxi looking for passengers to take back to their ship. And he was having a hard time just talking to us, less drive some tourist safely back to their ship.

Luckily for them they declined the ride back. Laughing at the situation I asked one of my new friends if this guy was going to get in his car and drive around. He told me that there are no laws in Barbados against drinking and driving. There had been a rash of accidents around the island due to so many people driving around full of rum. So a group had been formed to force the government to take action. The Minister of Tourism gave a report on the front page of the Barbados newspaper saying that there was no way that they were going to let the police take action as it might cut into tourism!!!

The taxi driver then told me that drinking rum improves his vision, and that the more he drink, the better driver he is. This was confirmed to me weeks later in yet another rum shop where one of the local ex pats told me that the problem on the island wasn’t people drinking to much and then driving. It was the sober drivers that were causing all the accidents on the island because the sober drivers were out of sync with all the other drivers on the road.

28 January 2009

28-Jan-2009 Midnight Position

Midnight Position
Caribbean Sea

  • 43 nm from Barbados Island
  • 50 nm to Bequia Island
  • Winds NE 15-20 Knots
  • Seas NE 3-4ft, Rain
  • 413 Nautical Miles from SV Christa/Cap'n Chris
This morning I stayed aboard while friends ashore Tim & Sally took Amy shopping so I could finish last minute projects and get Sandpiper ready for sea. Sandpiper's bilge pump float switch had failed. We had been able to buy a new one in Barbados which I was able to installed and rewire before Amy got back. We then said a sad farewell to Doris and her cast of characters at the 'Red Man Bar', and to friends Tim and Sally that have taken such good care if us during out stop here in Barbados. Thanks Barbados!!

We were able to get the hook out of the sand by 1pm, one last wave to everyone on the beach, and then the Sandpiper was off for an overnight 96 mile sail to the island of Bequia. As the clock strikes midnight Sandpiper sailing straight downwind, averaging 5 knots through rain squalls. We are hoping to arrive off the coast of Bequia Island by late morning. We are planning to have the hook set and checked in with customs by early afternoon.

More When Anchored,
Tom and Amy

26 January 2009

Barbados

Red Man Beach Bar
Anchored Carlisle Bay
Bridgetown
Barbados
Caribbean Sea
13'05.4N/59'36.7
267 miles from S/V Christa
(Click Photo To Enlarge)

Wow! How time flies when you are drinking rum!


Yes, we are still alive, still in Barbados, and the Sandpiper is all back together. With our busy social schedule it is amazing we have gotten anything done. Since our last post we wrapped up our week's free membership at the Yacht Club with a great hot shower, a quick WiFi hook up, a few rum punches, and lunch.

Last Sunday we awoke early and got on a bus in Bridgetown for an hour drive up the east coast of the island to The Crane Hotel where we enjoyed the Gospel Sunday Brunch. A wonderful treat for us to celebrate a belated Christmas and New Year's. While enjoying the gorgeous surroundings and a cold rum punch we met two Germans, Erol Gurian and Wolfgang, who were doing a story on Barbados for a German travel magazine. We asked if they had visited a rum shop yet. They answered "No", so we invited them to join us down at the 'Red Man Bar' later in the week. To our surprise they showed up, got to interview Doris the owner, and got to experience the real Barbados. I think a good time was had by all.

That night we were kidnapped by Tim and Sally. We got to sleep in their guest apartment in a real bed.

In the midst of all these fun times we were able to get the boat down to the yard and pull the mast off. We had tried and hoped it was going to be an easy fix of only climbing the mast and inserting our new bolt. But it wasn't going to work like that this time. With the help of Willie's Diving and Marine Services we used their crane to lift the mast off. Then they called us a local fabricator to come down and make us a few new bits and pieces for the spreaders.

While observing the locals for the past week I have noticed their leisurely island work pace. I was a bit concerned that we would be without a mast all week. But I was pleasantly surprised when all was done in one day. Then it was up to us to put everything back together.

Everyone at the yard was super friendly and helpful. And it made it convenient to have an Ace Hardware store in walking distance from the yard. It was also convenient to have Tiami Yacht Charters next to us where Josh, a skipper for the boats, hooked us up with a free shirt and bottle of rum punch.

As I write this Tom is finishing up with tighten the rigging and wiring. A bonus to the mast removal was the fact we were able to fix our spreader lights. They haven't worked in two years!

The last two nights we have been graciously hosted by Tim and Sally and their comfortable apartment. The four of us along with their neighbors went out for a wonderful dinner at a restaurant called 'Shakers Bar and Grill', a bungalow house converted into a warm and welcoming family run business. The owners are a husband and wife team. Amy, the bartender/hostess/waitress/do it all, is from the east coast of the US. Her husband is a local Bajan who does all the cooking. They have an amazing and booming business and you must visit if your ever here.

Our week was topped off yesterday afternoon when we attended a Christening. Not your normal Christening for a baby, but a Christening for three new puppies who were added to the 'Red Man Bar' family. The party was complete with fish cakes, corn beef sandwiches, and cake, which Tom and I were given the honors to cut and now makes us honorary Bajan's. With the puppies in a box and wrapped in bows a few nice words were said by Doris. A few songs sang by all, and a rum toast to complete the party.

I know we say this a lot, but Tom and I are ready to live here. It's close to the US. The people are amazing. It is beautiful. And the economy is doing better than anywhere else at the moment. We just need to sell the 'Piper. Anyone wanna buy a boat?

As hard as it is to leave, it is time for us to move on. Our current plan is to be in Bequia by the week's end where I have read there is lots of WiFi so we will catch up on our emails and Skype calls.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

One Love,
Amy and Tom

17 January 2009

Red Man Beach Bar

At Red Man Beach Bar
Anchored Carlisle Bay
Bridgetown
Barbados
Caribbean Sea
13'05.4N/59'36.7
267 miles from S/V Christa

We got the bolt!! Our first week here and we have not gotten much father than the clear waters and white sand beach off our bow. After our extensive searching throughout Bridgetown's fishing supply stores we were given an address for a fastener store that had a replacement bolt. The one that sheered off on the mast holding up the lower shrouds.

It is difficult for us to get motivated around here because it turns out we are anchored just off the best spot along the beach, on the best beach of the island. We are sitting in front of the best bar.. 'Red Man Bar'. Its just a tin shack run by a young 80 year old Barbados woman named Doris whom has somewhat adopted us and even offered Amy a job in her kitchen cooking. We found out yesterday that no one really gets paid for working there, Instead, you just get all the rum you can drink while at work.

Every morning a new set of cruise ships arrives and Bridgetown swells up, full of pasty white tourists. Most of them make their way down to the beach were we are anchored. Doris has beach chairs with umbrellas that she sets up every morning, then she sells drinks to the tourists, whom all disappear by sunset to get back to their ships. So this leaves the beach and the Red Man Bar for just us and the locals to enjoy the sunset. Every evening there is quite a cast of characters and everyone is really friendly. Every time we drag the dingy up the beach everyone working in the 'Red Man Bar' will ask us "You got d' bolt yet mon?"

We met a super friendly couple from the Channel Islands, Tim and Sally, who have been extremely helpful to us. They actually drove us out past the sugarcane fields to find the Fastener Store for our bolt. They let us do a load of laundry at their house, and they gave us a west coast tour of the island. They live here half the year and are great to talk to about the island.

The Barbados Yacht Club is just down the beach. They have given us a free one-week membership. Its cheap there. They have hot showers, potent rum punches, and WiFi. But they don't have the interesting cast of characters from the 'Red Man Bar'.

Our days here have been flying by and we still have a few things on our list to check off. So perhaps we will be here one more week. Fingers crossed the bolt is easy to install.

Internet is quite expensive here. So we will be waiting until we get to our next stop to update our photo and video pages. They are now quite outdated, and we have lots of new material to post. So stay tuned!!

More before we go,
Tom and Amy

12 January 2009

Bridgetown, Barbados

Anchored Carlisle Bay
Bridgetown
Barbados
Caribbean Sea
13'05.4N/59'36.7

  • 267 Nautical Miles from Cap'n Chris on the S/V Christa
Rum Punch + Landing The Dinghy Ashore = Drama...

It is official. We are in the Caribbean Sea!!

We kept tying to slow the Piper down but she was much to eager to get to an anchorage. The winds picked up over 20 knots right off the stern as we made landfall one hour before sunrise. The moon was full, making it very easy to see the shoreline as we rounded Barbados' north end. We arrived to the main port of Bridgetown at 10am where Port Control directed us to enter the harbor to clear in with customs, health, immigration, and the Port Captain. Once completed, we left the harbor. Once outside the jetty we anchored where we are now.

We dropped the hook right off a perfect white sand beach lined with beach bars. As soon as the anchor set under 20 feet of crystal clear water we both jumped in to celebrate. We then ventured ashore with the dingy and never made it father then the first beach bar closest to the dinghy. After sunset most the tourists laying around on the beach disappear and the bar was full of locals smoking funny looking cigarettes. Somehow on a perfectly calm beach we were able to flip the dingy twice after maybe too much 'punch'.

Our plans are to stay at anchor here in Carlisle Bay for the next 7-10 days before we make our way 90 miles to the west to the island of St Lucia. While we are here we will replace the broken bolt in the mast, then reattach the lower shrouds and retune the rig.

Since leaving Grand Canary Island we have used a total of 4 gallons of diesel. Nice!

More before we go,
Tom and Amy

08 January 2009

Barbados Mailing Address

Our mailing address for the next 10 days will be:

Tom & Amy Larson
S/V Sandpiper, yacht in transit
c/o Barbados Yacht Club
Bay Street
St.Michael
Barbados
Tel:(246) 427-1125
Fax:(246) 435-7590